Criticas sobre Broccolino.
- Inexpensive. For many, the
best Italian restaurant in town. The variety of pasta dishes is unbelievable, -all
diferent and dellicious. The rest of the menu follows suit. Open every day for lunch and
Fodor's 91, South America - Including Antarctica and the Gal?pagos
- Fantastic homemade pasta
and flawless service are the trademarks of this busy little Italian eatery, although pizza
and steak and chicken dishes are also served. Try pasta ai funghi (with mushroom
sauce) or alla carretiera (with a spicy tomato sauce). The bruschetta (thick
garlic bread) is highly recommended. Open daily. Reservations advised for large groups. No
credit cards accepted.
Birnbaum's 95, South America.
- It's name, Broccolino,
is a neologism by wich italians call the Brooklin neighborhood, in New York, where their
parents, who went to make the America used to live. This nice and renowned, well
reputed Italian restaurant, is one of our favorites, ... Is always full of turists
from neighbor hotels, families and people who work near it's place, because of it's good
pasta and accessible prices. ... and it's distribution is very efficient for a restaurant
of it's genre. It's weak point is the air conditioner, which is turned on or off according
to the clients asking.
Do?a Irene Trio -a roman who is always in the
place, helped by their sons Antonio and Enrique Pizzo- alerts: here
you come to eat, with the best quality, the best price and plentiful dishes. A formula
for success which anyone can verify.
the Ensalada Real (...) or their special pizza of mussels, one of their
specialties, -baked in a big oven, also used for the foccacias. Antonio suggests,
commenting: peperoncini fritti, like the godfather used to eat; rigatoni
alla putanesca, spicy like hell; and ravioli Big Boss, Capone made
them famous. But we still have spaghetti profumo di mare, Neptune's
madness (a seafruit blend) or the ravioli Caligula, with pesto
and xxx. Everything can be spraid with the excelent argentinian extra-virgin olive oil
offered. The afterdinner chat is as soft as the lemon cream, sambay?n ice-cream
or the fruit salad.
Frommer's, Buenos Aires.
- If one takes the local scene as
an example, it would seem that the greatest danger that a restaurant has to face is
success. It is a heady wine, admidettly, but the intelligent drinker will know that it
must be taken in sips, not one large gulp. Not many of our restauranteurs, it would seem,
are knowledgeable drinkers. As soon as success blesses their enterprise they assume that
the world is theirs, to do with as they see fit. One of the most frequent decisions is to
grow larger, even to the point of branching out and setting up new joints or, worse still,
franchising. Almost inevitably the results are negative when not directly disastrous.
Few restaurants take success in their stride, increasing their capacity when it is logical
to do so, or resisting the temptation and remaining "in the mould" (as Ramon
would say). Even more difficult is to accept success and not only one's level but increase
it. One such example is Broccolino (Esmeralda 776, M. 4322-9848) an Italian style
restaurant which, within its particular style and level, must surely be one of the best in
It was a year since I had last visited it, in spite of my rather special relationship with
Tony Trio and his family, so when I dropped in the other day I was surprised to see that
an already enlarged premises had been enlarged once again. This time the addition was an
opening onto Avenida C?rdoba 820, slightlymore modern than the rest of the restaurant,
but hewing to the sober, clean, no-nonsense decor suitable to a place where the food and
the customer are more important than anything else. Adding on extra covers to an already
ample selection would seem, in these tight days, when half filling a place is considered a
red-letter occasion, to be a crass error. Not so here. I had an early Thursday lunch and
left before one-thirty noting that almost all the tables were taken. The level of the
customers was also notable; a nice mix of foreigners and local businessmen with the latter
Many factors go into making a restaurant a success. In Broccolino's case I would say that
three are predominant: truly great sauces; generous portions and excellent service. Every
waiter must know at least two languages (many have more) and they are aware that the
customer is the source of their wellbeing. They treat the customer accordingly. Other
factors are the sensible and very good wine list and the prices. At a first glance of the
menu, prices may seem a little high in some cases, but this is illusory if one understands
that most portions are sufficient for two and sometimes three. The menu -and the waiter-
point this out so that a couple can share a great meal for a very reasonable outlay.
Sharing is encouraged, not frowned upon.
But when all is said and done, it is the food that makes Broccolino what it is. I am a
strong critic of those menus which seem endless, offering more dishes than any kitchen
cany possibly handle efficiently. The Broccolino menu is one of my very few exceptions.
Every meal I have had there has been better than the previous one, order what I may. This,
my latest visit, was no exception. A novelty on the menu, brought back by Tony from New
York, is the prosaically announced Cebolla Broccolino, better known in the Big Aple and
elsewhere, as "Bloomin' Onion". This consists of a large onion ingeniously
sliced into many fingers by a special apparatus which stops just short of slicing right
through, thus keeping the onion whole. The tips are dipped in batter and deep-fried. The
onion opens up like a waterlilly and comes served with a delicious, spicy sauce. Not to be
A second novelty is announced as Spaghetti Neptuno. This is a dish which the menu
suggests should be shared by two or three hungry persons, and I concur wholy. The
spaghetti comes smothered in what seems to be every type of seafood available, plus
tunafish, broccoli and more, bathed in a fresh, delicious tomato sauce. I can't find a
word better than spectacular to describe it. And so on down the list; every dish appears
as a creation. Some only appear on certain days. For example, Tuesday is the day to enjoy
Tony's idea of what a mondongo should taste like. Tripe lovers cannot do any
better than try this dish. Thursday is polenta day, served with chicken and a
Broccolino sauce. Friday is the day for lentejas and rarely are lentils better
prepared. And I could go on for ages. Much better, however, that you drop in and try for
yourself. It is an experience not to be missed, and best enjoyed in company. Sharing is
also a delicious ingredient.
Buenos Aires Herald, Food & Wine, Sunday, June 27, 1999.