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Broccolino - Il Genuino Ristorante Italiano di Buenos Aires

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Criticas sobre Broccolino.

  • Inexpensive. For many, the best Italian restaurant in town. The variety of pasta dishes is unbelievable, -all diferent and dellicious. The rest of the menu follows suit. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

    Fodor's 91, South America - Including Antarctica and the Gal?pagos Islands.

  • Fantastic homemade pasta and flawless service are the trademarks of this busy little Italian eatery, although pizza and steak and chicken dishes are also served. Try pasta ai funghi (with mushroom sauce) or alla carretiera (with a spicy tomato sauce). The bruschetta (thick garlic bread) is highly recommended. Open daily. Reservations advised for large groups. No credit cards accepted.

    Birnbaum's 95, South America.

  • It's  name, Broccolino, is a neologism by wich italians call the Brooklin neighborhood, in New York, where their parents, who went to make the America used to live. This nice and renowned, well reputed Italian restaurant, is  one of our favorites, ... Is always full of turists from neighbor hotels, families and people who work near it's place, because of it's good pasta and accessible prices. ... and it's distribution is very efficient for a restaurant of it's genre. It's weak point is the air conditioner, which is turned on or off according to the clients asking.
          Do?a Irene Trio -a roman who is always in the place, helped by their sons Antonio and Enrique Pizzo- alerts: here you come to eat, with the best quality, the best price and plentiful dishes. A formula for success which anyone can verify.
          Try the Ensalada Real (...) or their special pizza of mussels, one of  their specialties, -baked in a big oven, also used for the foccacias. Antonio suggests, commenting: peperoncini fritti, like the godfather used to eat; rigatoni alla putanesca, spicy like hell; and ravioli Big Boss, Capone made them famous. But we still have spaghetti profumo di mare, Neptune's   madness (a seafruit blend) or the ravioli Caligula, with pesto and xxx. Everything can be spraid with the excelent argentinian extra-virgin olive oil offered. The afterdinner chat is as soft as the lemon cream, sambay?n ice-cream or the fruit salad.

    Frommer's, Buenos Aires.
  • If one takes the local scene as an example, it would seem that the greatest danger that a restaurant has to face is success. It is a heady wine, admidettly, but the intelligent drinker will know that it must be taken in sips, not one large gulp. Not many of our restauranteurs, it would seem, are knowledgeable drinkers. As soon as success blesses their enterprise they assume that the world is theirs, to do with as they see fit. One of the most frequent decisions is to grow larger, even to the point of branching out and setting up new joints or, worse still, franchising. Almost inevitably the results are negative when not directly disastrous.
    Few restaurants take success in their stride, increasing their capacity when it is logical to do so, or resisting the temptation and remaining "in the mould" (as Ramon would say). Even more difficult is to accept success and not only one's level but increase it. One such example is Broccolino (Esmeralda 776, M. 4322-9848) an Italian style restaurant which, within its particular style and level, must surely be one of the best in B.A.
    It was a year since I had last visited it, in spite of my rather special relationship with Tony Trio and his family, so when I dropped in the other day I was surprised to see that an already enlarged premises had been enlarged once again. This time the addition was an opening onto Avenida C?rdoba 820, slightlymore modern than the rest of the restaurant, but hewing to the sober, clean, no-nonsense decor suitable to a place where the food and the customer are more important than anything else. Adding on extra covers to an already ample selection would seem, in these tight days, when half filling a place is considered a red-letter occasion, to be a crass error. Not so here. I had an early Thursday lunch and left before one-thirty noting that almost all the tables were taken. The level of the customers was also notable; a nice mix of foreigners and local businessmen with the latter predominant.
    Many factors go into making a restaurant a success. In Broccolino's case I would say that three are predominant: truly great sauces; generous portions and excellent service. Every waiter must know at least two languages (many have more) and they are aware that the customer is the source of their wellbeing. They treat the customer accordingly. Other factors are the sensible and very good wine list and the prices. At a first glance of the menu, prices may seem a little high in some cases, but this is illusory if one understands that most portions are sufficient for two and sometimes three. The menu -and the waiter- point this out so that a couple can share a great meal for a very reasonable outlay. Sharing is encouraged, not frowned upon.
    But when all is said and done, it is the food that makes Broccolino what it is. I am a strong critic of those menus which seem endless, offering more dishes than any kitchen cany possibly handle efficiently. The Broccolino menu is one of my very few exceptions. Every meal I have had there has been better than the previous one, order what I may. This, my latest visit, was no exception. A novelty on the menu, brought back by Tony from New York, is the prosaically announced Cebolla Broccolino, better known in the Big Aple and elsewhere, as "Bloomin' Onion". This consists of a large onion ingeniously sliced into many fingers by a special apparatus which stops just short of slicing right through, thus keeping the onion whole. The tips are dipped in batter and deep-fried. The onion opens up like a waterlilly and comes served with a delicious, spicy sauce. Not to be missed.
    A second novelty is announced as Spaghetti Neptuno. This is a dish which the menu suggests should be shared by two or three hungry persons, and I concur wholy. The spaghetti comes smothered in what seems to be every type of seafood available, plus tunafish, broccoli and more, bathed in a fresh, delicious tomato sauce. I can't find a word better than spectacular to describe it. And so on down the list; every dish appears as a creation. Some only appear on certain days. For example, Tuesday is the day to enjoy Tony's idea of what a mondongo should taste like. Tripe lovers cannot do any better than try this dish. Thursday is polenta day, served with chicken and a Broccolino sauce. Friday is the day for lentejas and rarely are lentils better prepared. And I could go on for ages. Much better, however, that you drop in and try for yourself. It is an experience not to be missed, and best enjoyed in company. Sharing is also a delicious ingredient.

    Buenos Aires Herald, Food & Wine, Sunday, June 27, 1999.
Dise?ado por Gar?n & Asociados
 


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